(The nineteenth-century mountaineer illuminates the custom...)
The nineteenth-century mountaineer illuminates the customs of the Indians of Ecuador while recording his ascents of Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, Cayambe, and other Andean peaks
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(When he first saw the Alps in 1860, Edward Whymper was a ...)
When he first saw the Alps in 1860, Edward Whymper was a 20-year-old English wood engraver whose dream was to become an arctic explorer. Ambitious and hungry for adventure, he fell in love with the challenge the Alps presented and set out to conquer them peak by peak. Whymper made quick work of the challenge, racking up dozens of first ascents and acquiring a reputation as one of the best in the nascent field of mountaineering. But on the Matterhorn, considered to be mountaineering's Holy Grail at the time, Whymper met with failure again and again. On his eighth attempted ascent he finally succeeded, becoming the first man to reach its magnificent peak. The victory came at a heavy cost, however, as Whymper watched four of his companions fall to their deaths on the descent. It was a tragedy that would cast a shadow over the remainder of his life. Published in 1871, Scrambles Amongst the Alps is Whymper's own story of his nine years spent climbing in the Alps. One of the first books devoted to the sheer thrill of mountaineering, it is a breathtaking account of the triumph of man over mountain in a time before thermal clothing, nylon ropes, global positioning systems, and air rescues. It also offers Whymper's controversial story of the tragedy on the Matterhorn. One of the best adventure books of all time, Scrambles Amongst the Alps is an essential classic of climbing literature by one of mountaineering's most legendary figures.
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(Edward Whymper ( 1840 1911) was an English mountaineer,...)
Edward Whymper ( 1840 1911) was an English mountaineer, explorer, illustrator, and author best known for the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865; four members of his party were killed during the descent. Whymper also made important first ascents on the Mont Blanc massif and in the Pennine Alps, South America, and the Canadian Rockies. His exploration of Greenland contributed an important advance to Arctic exploration. Whymper wrote several books on mountaineering, including Scrambles Amongst the Alps. Since Mr. Whymper published his "Scramble! among the Alps," his name has been a household word among his countrymen. The quality of the man is again shown in his new book of Travels among the Great Andes of the Equator. From the rocky island of Diego Ramirez, south of Cape Horn, nearly to the mouth of the Mackenzie River, which opens into the Arctic Ocean, the Cordilleras of the Andes form a sort of gigantic backbone to the two American continents, following the western coastline for almost three thousand leagues. For reasons which he explains, Mr. Whymper determined to explore the summits of this chain, which occur in the republic of the Equator, or Ecuador. Though weapons and ammunition of war were neither taken nor needed, these natural fortresses were not to be stormed, for any useful purpose, without the preparation, forethought, and expense that are suggestive of a military campaign. Had Mr. Whympers ambition only been to set foot on the tiptop of Chimborazo, an attempt in which Humboldt and Boussingault had successively failed, he might probably have gratified his desire at far less cost and with far less trouble than that which he, in fact, expended upon that lordly mountain and some of its peers. But he was bent upon surveying the country, ascertaining the true heights of its chief eminences, comparing the accuracy of the aneroid with that of the mercurial barometer, bringing home specimens of the rocks and of the flora and fauna of the elevated regions, and determining the range of altitude within which various species of plants and animals can live and flourish. Above all, he wished to experiment upon himself and his companions in regard to mountain sickness. CONTENTS. I.FROM LONDON TO GUARANDA. II. FROM GUARANDA TO THE FIRST CAMP ON CHIMBORAZO. III. THE FIRST ASCENT OF CHIMBORAZO. IV. FROM CHUQUIPOQUIO TO AMBATO, LATACUNGA AND MACHACHI. V. ON AN ASCENT OF CORAZON, AND WALKS IN THE LANES OF MACHACHI. VI. ON COTOPAXI AND ILLINIZA. VII. THE ASCENT OF COTOPAXI, AND A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT. VIII. THE FIRST ASCENT OF SINCHOLAGUA. IX. ON QUITO AND THE QUITONIANS. X. THE FIRST ASCENT OF ANTISANA. XI. UPON AN ASCENT OF PICHINCHA. XII. THE FIRST ASCENT OF CAYAMBE. XIII. THE FIRST ASCENT OF SARA-URCU. XIV. ON THE PROVINCE OF IMBABURA, AND THE FIRST ASCENT OF COTOCACHI. XV. A VISIT TO THE PYRAMIDS OF QUITO. XVI. UPON A WALK ON THE QUITO ROAD, AND A JOURNEY TO ALTAR. XVII. THE FIRST ASCENT OF CARIHUAIRAZO. XVIII. ON THE SECOND ASCENT OF CHIMBORAZO. XIX. UPON SOME RESULTS OF THE JOURNEY. XX. RETURN TO GUAYAQUILCONCLUSION. This book originally published in 1892 has been reformatted for the Kindle and may contain an occasional imperfection from the original publication or from the reformatting.
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(Arriving home in A.D. 1366 from a meeting of Parliament i...)
Arriving home in A.D. 1366 from a meeting of Parliament in London, Sir Hugh Middleton is shocked to learn from his daughter that a neighboring monastery has laid claim to one of his fields. When Sir Hugh drives the monks from his property, his brother, a monk at the monastery, tells him that he has committed a mortal sin, however Sir Hugh steadfastly refuses to yield. He further offends the monastery by sending his younger son, Stephen, to study under Dr. John Wycliffe, who has begun to publicly question the authority of the Church to grant pardon for sin. At the same time, Sir Hugh sends his elder son, Harry, to serve as an attendant to the powerful Duke of Lancaster, who is well-known for his desire to limit the power of the Church and increase the power of the nobility. These are times of great political and religious upheaval as the desire for freedom spreads throughout England and Europe. As Wycliffe's "poor priests" begin to share the Word of God with the common people, Stephen and Harry and their sisters, Maud and Madge, all find that they have parts to play for the kingdom of God in the turbulent day in which they live.
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( First conqueror of Matterhorn describes early mountain ...)
First conqueror of Matterhorn describes early mountain climbing, excitement and danger of climbing the high peaks â violent storms, falling rocks, frigid temperatures, glorious alpine scenery, and the thrill of conquest.
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(Excerpt from Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860...)
Excerpt from Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860 69 The preparation of the illustrations has occupied a large part of my time during the last six years With the exception of the views upon pp 18 19 and 24 the whole of the illustrations have been engraved expressly for the book and unless it is otherwise specified all are from my own sketches About fifty have been drawn on the wood by Mr James Mahoney and I am much indebted to that artist for the care and fidelity with which he has fol lowed my slight memoranda and for the spmt that he has put into his admirable designs Most of his drawings will be identified by his mono gram Twenty of the remainder are the work of Mr Cyrus Johnston and out of these I would draw especial attention to the view of the Matterhorn facing p 36 the striated rock upon p 63 and the bits from the Mer de Glace upon pp I3s 139 The illustrations have been introduced as illustra tions and very rarely for ornamental purposes We have subordinated everything in them to accuracy and it is only fair to the artists who have honored me by their assistance to say that many of their designs would have ranked higher as works of art if they had been subjected to fewer restrictions About the Publisher Forgotten Books publishes hundreds of thousands of rare and classic books Find more at www forgottenbooks com This book is a reproduction of an important historical work Forgotten Books uses state of the art technology to digitally reconstruct the work preserving the original format whilst repairing imperfections present in the aged copy In rare cases an imperfection in the original such as a blemish or missing page may be replicated in our edition We do however repair the vast majority of imperfections successfully any imperfections that remain are intentionally left to preserve the state of such historical works
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(In 1865, when just twenty-five years of age, Edward Whymp...)
In 1865, when just twenty-five years of age, Edward Whymper achieved the fame of which he had dreamt as a teenager by making the first ascent of the Matterhorn, the last great unclimbed summit in the Alps. With renown cam notoriety and lasting sorrow, though, due to the catastrophic accident on the descent, which cost the lives of four of his party. Whymper's life was marked by the conquest of the Matterhorn, but his mountaineering achievements have overshadowed his distinction as a wood engraver and book illustrator. Before he had ever thought about the Alps, while a teenager fulfilling his apprenticeship in the family engraving studio, Whymper kept a diary for six years, detailing his daily life in Lambeth. Showing frequent glimpses of the dry and sardonic humor so characteristic of the older Whymper, the diary is written with a developing style which looks forward to his classic works on mountaineering, Scrambles amongst the Alps and Travels amongst the the great Andes of the Equator. Providing a rare picture of the workings of a wood engraving studio during the heyday of this reproductive medium, the diary also reveals the world of his father, Josiah, and those London-based artists seeking to make a living from their water-color painting. An avid reader of The Times, the young Whymper's diary follows the events of the day - the Crimean War, the Indian Mutiny, the affairs of Parliament, notorious trials, business scandals - and also the many fires and daily catastrophes so prevalent in Victorian London. This edition reproduces the complete text of Whymper's first diary for the first time.
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(Scrambles Amongst the Alps)
Scrambles Amongst the Alps
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(Quienes lean este libro tendrán, sin duda, conocimiento d...)
Quienes lean este libro tendrán, sin duda, conocimiento de los debates que desde hace mucho tiempo, se han suscitado sobre si es posible la conservación de la vida humana a grandes alturas sobre el nivel del mar, en tal forma que sea posible en ellas verificar alguna clase de trabajo. Las más opuestas relaciones y opiniones se han expuesto sobre este punto. Se ha dicho que pueden ocurrir, y que han ocurrido en efecto, accidentes fatales en alturas relativamente pequeñas; y también, que no se ha experimentado ninguna clase de efectos en las mayores alturas a que se ha podido llegar. Las alegaciones sobre este último caso no pueden tomarse en cuenta en la actualidad, pues la experiencia ha demostrado plenamente que, a 14.000 o más pies sobre el nivel del mar, han ocurrido con frecuencia serios accidentes, se ha experimentado una postración (que en los casos extremos ha llegado hasta la incapacidad) de hacer ningún movimiento y que, en unos pocos, ha producido hasta la muerte por alguna causa producida a su vez por las grandes alturas.
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explorer illustrator mountaineer author
He was born in London on the 27th of April 1840. The son of an artist Josiah Wood Whymper and Elizabeth Claridge, he was at an early age trained to the profession of a wood-engraver. He was the second of eleven children, his older brother being the artist and explorer Frederick Whymper.
In 1860 he was commissioned to make a series of sketches of Alpine scenery, and undertook an extensive journey in the Central and Western Alps. Among the objects of this tour was the illustration of an attempt, which proved unsuccessful, made by Professor Bonncy's party, to ascend Mont Pelvoax, at that time believed to be the highest peak of the Dauphinc Alps.
He successfully accomplished the ascent in 1861-the first of a series of expeditions that threw much light on the topography of a district at that time very imperfectly mapped.
From the summit of Mont Pelvoux he discovered that it was overtopped by a neighbouring peak, subsequently named the Pointe des Rorins, which, before the annexation of Savoy added Mont Blanc to the possessions of France, was the highest point in lhe French Alps. Its ascent by Mr Whymper's party in 1864 was perhaps the most remarkable feat of mountaineering up to that date.
The years 1861 to 1865 are filled with a number of new expeditions in the Mont Blanc group and the Pennine Alps, among them the ascent of the Aiguille Verte and the crossing of the Morning Fass.
Professor Tyndall and Mr Whymper emulated each other in fruitless attempts to reach the summit of the Matterhorn by the south-western or Italian ridge. Mr Whymper, six times repulsed, determined to try the eastern face, convinced that its precipitous appearance when viewed from Zermatt was an optical illusion, and that the dip of the strata, which on the Italian side formed a continuous series of overhangs, should make the opposite side a natural staircase.
His attempt by what is now the usual route was crowned with success (14th of July 1865); but on the descent four of the party slipped and were killed, and only the breaking of the rope saved Mr Whymper and the two remaining guides from the same fate.
The account of his attempts on the Matterhorn occupies the greater part of his Scrambles among the Alps (1871), in which the illustrations are engraved by the author himself, and arc very beautiful.
His campaign of 1865 had been planned to exercise his judgment in the choice of routes as a preparation for an expedition to Greenland (1867). This resulted in an important collection of fossil plants, which were described by Professor Heer and deposited in the British Museum.
Mr Whymper's report was published in the Report of the British Association for the year 1869. Though hampered by want of means and by the prevalence of an epidemic among the natives, he proved that the interior could be explored by the use of suitably constructed sledges, and thus contributed an important advance to Arctic exploration.
Another expedition followed in 1872, and was devoted to a survey of the coast-line. He next organized an expedition to Ecuador, designed primarily to collect data for the study of mountain- sickness and of the effect of diminished pressure on the human frame.
He took as his chief guide Jean-Antoine Carrel, whose subsequent death from exhaustion on the Matterhorn after bringing his employers into safety through a snowstorm forms one of the noblest pages in the history of mountaineering.
During 1880 Mr Whymper on two occasions ascended Chimborazo, whose summit, 20, 500 ft. above sea-level, had never before been reached; spent a night on the summit of Cotopaxi, and made first ascents of half-a-dozen other great peaks.
In 1892 he published the results of his journey in a volume, entitled Travels amongst the Great Andes of the Equator. His observations on mountain-sickness led him to conclude that it was caused by " diminution in atmospheric pressure, which operates in at least two ways-namely, (a) by lessening the value of the air that can be inspired in any given time, and (b) by causing the air or gas within the body to expand, and to press upon the internal organs"; and that " the effects produced by (b) may be temporary and pass away when equilibrium has been restored between the internal and external pressure. "
The publication of his work was recognized on the part of the Royal Geographical Society by the award of the Patron's medal. His experiences in South America having convinced him of certain serious errors in the readings of aneroid barometers at high altitudes, he published a work, entitled How to Use the Aneroid Barometer, and succeeded in introducing important improvements in their construction. He afterwards published two guide-books to Zermatt and Chamonix.
In 1901-1905 he undertook an expedition in the region of the Great Divide of the Canadian Rockies.
Four members of his climbing party were killed during the descent. Whymper also made important first ascents on the Mont Blanc massif and in the Pennine Alps, Chimborazo in South America, and the Canadian Rockies. His exploration of Greenland contributed an important advance to Arctic exploration. Whymper wrote several books on mountaineering, including Scrambles Amongst the Alps.
(Excerpt from Scrambles Amongst the Alps in the Years 1860...)
(Quienes lean este libro tendrán, sin duda, conocimiento d...)
( First conqueror of Matterhorn describes early mountain ...)
(Edward Whymper ( 1840 1911) was an English mountaineer,...)
(In 1865, when just twenty-five years of age, Edward Whymp...)
(The nineteenth-century mountaineer illuminates the custom...)
(When he first saw the Alps in 1860, Edward Whymper was a ...)
(Scrambles Amongst the Alps)
(Arriving home in A.D. 1366 from a meeting of Parliament i...)
Quotations: The accident haunted Whymper: 'Every night, do you understand, I see my comrades of the Matterhorn slipping on their backs, their arms outstretched, one after the other, in perfect order at equal distances—Croz the guide, first, then Hadow, then Hudson, and lastly Douglas. Yes, I shall always see them . .. "
On 25 April 1906, Whymper married Edith Mary Lewin (born 1883) at Emmanuel Church in Forest Gate, London. The service was presided over by Canon J. M'Cormick, who had assisted the mountaineer after the Matterhorn accident. The marriage produced one daughter, Ethel. The couple were separated in 1910. Edith remarried in 1913 and died the following year from complications of pregnancy.
