Career
In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Hermann Buhl, to climb the worlds 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak (8,047 metres) in the Karakoram in Pakistan. In his later years, he successfully organized and led 74 expeditions to the high mountains around the world. 1946 Nördlicher Mandlkopf, Southwest face, V 1948 Wildalmkirchl, South traverse, V+ 1949 Fleischbank, direct East chimney ("Schmuckkamin"), VI Sommerstein, West face, 1. winter ascent 1953 Birnhorn, South face, 1. winter ascent 1955 Snökuppelen, North face, IV Falkenstein, Southeast ridge, III Westbyfijell,South face, III and Southeast ridge, II 1956 Petit Dru, West face, record time 1.5 days Bischofsmütze direct North face, VI+ 1957 Broad Peak 8047m on June 9 Skil Brum 7420m on June 19 1959 Hoggar Denachnet 2690m, East ridge 1963 Koh i Sayoz 6920m Koh i Shogordok 6855m 1965 Darban Zom 7220m Wildalmkirchl, South traverse 1982 Muztagh Ata 7546m, 3rd ascent, new route.